Perhentian Besar or Kecil: which island to stay on

Side by side: Kecil and Besar

Perhentian Kecil

Cheaper rooms, backpackers and the only real nightlife

• Long Beach (Pasir Panjang): the most popular backpacker spot
• Coral Bay is about 10 minutes' walk from Long Beach
• Fisherman Village: a dozen or so cheap food stalls

Perhentian Besar

Far quieter, better for families and couples

• Best and cleanest beaches on the west side
• Luxury stays on the west bay, priced to match
• Southern beach: largest and quietest, 6 resorts or chalets

Tourism Malaysia calls Perhentian Kecil the island geared towards backpackers. Rough Guides says Kecil is lively and more budget-friendly, while Besar is far quieter and better for families and couples. Wikivoyage draws the same line: Kecil’s cheaper rooms bring in more travellers and it can get a little noisy, while Besar suits people who want to avoid the backpacker party scene.

Perhentian Kecil: Long Beach, Coral Bay and the village

Long Beach (Pasir Panjang) is the most popular backpacker spot and the only place on the islands with anything like a nightlife¹. Alcohol is sold only at Oh La La’s, Monkey Bar and Blacktips¹, and Wikivoyage warns that loud disco music plays until late every night, so pack earplugs if you sleep nearby. You can change money on Long Beach, and cash advances are available at Bubu Long Beach Resort and at Senja Bay Resort on Coral Bay.

Coral Bay is an easy walk of about ten minutes¹ from Long Beach and has a few restaurants. Wikivoyage rates it the best sunset spot on the islands, though it adds that a new jetty has spoiled most of the view. In the south-east corner, Fisherman Village (Kampung Pasir Hantu) has Medan Selera, a dozen or so stalls¹ of cheap local food by the pier, plus a small medical reception where a doctor and nurses give basic, low-cost care.

Perhentian Besar: west-side beaches and quiet bays

Besar’s best and cleanest beaches are on its west side, which is also where the luxury accommodation sits, priced to match. The southern beach is the largest and quietest on the islands, with six resorts or chalets¹, although Wikivoyage finds it less inviting than the west side. The Barat Perhentian describes the south-west coast as one of the island’s quieter stretches, reachable only by boat³.

The travel site terengganutourism.com lists Teluk Dalam and Teluk Pauh among Besar’s most famous beaches. Teluk Dalam has a large beach near Shark Point, and popular snorkelling spots include Teluk Pauh (left of the beach in front of Perhentian Island Resort), Shark Point and Tanjung Basi. Besar is not dry: it has a bar, and Watercolours changes money for a small commission.

For a beach-by-beach view of both islands, see which Perhentian beach suits you.

Which suits whom

Choose Perhentian Kecil if…

• You’re on a tight budget. Kecil’s cheaper rooms bring in more travellers, and Wikivoyage lists dorm beds and small fan rooms in Coral Bay.
• You want nightlife. Long Beach is the islands’ only real nightlife spot¹, though Besar has a bar.
• You’d rather walk than take boats. Long Beach and Coral Bay are about ten minutes¹ apart on foot, and Coral Bay has a few restaurants.
• You want cheap local food. Medan Selera, next to the Fisherman Village pier, serves it.
• You want a big-name resort near the action. Mimpi Perhentian sits on Long Beach, and Perhentian Marriott Resort & Spa is on the north-west coast.

Choose Perhentian Besar if…

• You travel with children. Wikivoyage says Besar is better suited to families, and Tuna Bay Island Resort pitches its family chalets at family retreats; its Super Deluxe Family Sea View Chalet costs RM1,120¹¹ a night for 3–4 people¹¹.
• You want early nights. Rough Guides calls Besar far quieter. Mama’s Chalet, next to The Barat, describes itself as a quiet, clean chalet.
• You want to snorkel from the beach. Teluk Pauh, Shark Point and Tanjung Basi are all on Besar.
• You travel solo but want a resort. Perhentian Island Resort says its A Frame Room suits solo travellers looking to relax after beach activities.
• You want resort comfort above all. Redang has a more upmarket image, as almost all its accommodation is in resorts; see Redang vs Perhentian.

Either island works if…

• You came to dive and snorkel. The Perhentians offer great diving and excellent snorkelling. Go Perhentian’s shared snorkelling boat costs RM50¹⁴ per person and leaves from any resort, while Mat & Man, local boatmen based around Coral Bay, charge RM60¹⁵ for a short trip of about 3 hours¹⁵.
• You don’t mind short boat rides. Water taxi prices are negotiable, at about RM12¹ for most hops between beaches.